Category Archives: Most popular posts

Dangdut! Susi

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So far, I haven’t found any other record on the internet for this performer.  It’s entirely possible that Susi is her correct and full name, though.  Possibly a karaoke club singer whose been enlisted to beef up the line-up for this concert.  She has quite a unique and pleasant sound, with that trembling vibrato.  It gives a sense of nervousness or vulnerability, which combined with her youth makes for a highly watchable clip.  But you can see by her actions on the stage that she is quite comfortable performing in front of an audience.  Just needs a bit of prompting from the MC before she remembers to smile and dance.

The group of girls smoking and chatting on the stage behind her are also singers, waiting for their turn.  I’m not sure who the person wearing the beanie is.  Maybe she’s a tranny?  It’s quite common to see transgender performers on Indonesian TV, so why not in a concert?

The song is a popular one, but I don’t know the lyrics.  Mabuk janda = drunk widow.  Janda can also mean widower, and it can also mean a divorced woman.  So it’s another dangdut song of trouble and woe.

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Dangdut! Rhoma Irama

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Watch the first 30 seconds of this clip for the laughs.  Listen to the rest of the clip for the golden voice of Rhoma Irama, king of dangdut.

Since I saw this clip I really need to see the whole film.  What caused her to bleed from the eyes?  Why are the workers looking the opposite direction to where the action is?  Why is he running like a girl and so slowly?  And why is he calling her Mama?  She looks too young to be his mother.  Did she adopt him?

Quick!  Someone watch Pengabdian and tell me the answers.

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Jakarta street food: Mie ayam baso

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One step up from having a kaki lima (mobile food stall) is to park it in front of an open-to-the-street restaurant.  At the start of the clip you can see the colourful banner advertising the food.

Mie ayam baso = chicken ball noodle soup.  Pangsit = meat ball wrapped in noodle material (often fried).  Kwetiaw = thick, flat noodles.

She cooks it up as you wait, and you don’t have to wait long. You get two dishes for your money, one is the noodles, the other contains the soup, you can pour the soup into the noodles or eat it separately, depending on your preference. 

Sorry the clip gets a bit out of focus towards the end, the camera man must be salivating.

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Chastity belt prevents sexual harassment

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There’ll be no naughty business in this panti pijat (massage parlour) in Batu.  The owner has a policy of padlocking the girls clothes so there’s no possibility of ‘extra service’.  The girl being interviewed seems to be grateful for the extra protection too. It’s an unfortunate part of the job, I guess, to be pestered by ‘naughty boys’ (pria nakal).

It’s not easy to know what kind of massage parlour you’re visiting unless the place has been recommended to you.  Just because the place looks seedy doesn’t automatically mean it’s a brothel, and luxurious decor doesn’t mean you’ll get a serious massage.  Usually the nice ones promote themselves as ‘family’ spas. If you see they have a mixed clientele, that’s a good sign. One way to tell is to ask if you can check the facilities before you commit yourself.  If the rooms are reasonably easy to look into and the walls don’t reach the ceiling, then it’s most likely to be a therapeutic massage.  An example of a chain of spas which doesn’t resort to naughty business is Enggar.

Massage is a skill that many Indonesians learn from when they’re children.  It’s another good reason to have an Indonesian girlfriend/boyfriend.

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Jakarta street food: Lontong and Krupuk

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Lontong is an alternative to white rice.  It’s like white rice which has been pressed together into a kind of brick.  Some people like it, each to his own.  Maybe it suits some dishes better than white rice?

In this clip, he’s having the lontong with curried tofu soup and egg.  A nice big bag of krupuk comes included in the price. 

Krupuk are like prawn crackers, but they aren’t always prawn flavoured. Some are garlic, others plain, maybe there are other flavours too.  There’s a huge variety of krupuk, enough for a blog just on that subject.  In this clip, the krupuk are the simplest kind.

If you think I’ve put a lot of these street food clips on this blog, hold on because I’m going to put a whole lot more in the next few weeks.  I hope this is giving you an idea of how much wonderful food is available in Indonesia.

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Jakarta street food: Martabak manis

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It’s like crumpet topped with melted chocolate and cheese.  I don’t know of any other place where cheese is used as a flavouring for sweets, but it actually works!  Indonesians love cheese and it’s comparatively expensive.

My own memories of martabak are from Tebet Barat in Jakarta. The sweet one they make there is way too sweet for me, there was too much of it and it was loaded with margarine.  The normal, savoury martabak is more like an omelet, with a few veggies to make it seem healthy.  Still, next time I’ll keep an eye out for this kind of martabak manis since it’s snack sized and delicious too.

Of course, martabak did not originate in Indonesia, you can get it in India too.

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Cat scat coffee and the fair trade mafia

http://www.dailymotion.com/videox6ht7s

Kopi luwak is the most expensive coffee in the world because it is scarce and it is also the finest.

The scarcity is because of the method of production.  As the clip shows, the coffee beans are sourced from the droppings of the luwak (civet cat).  Coffee made from these beans does not have the bitterness of ordinary coffee and the aftertaste is not so prolonged.  The flavour is quite distinctive, but pleasant.

Why does the coffee have these characteristics?  Firstly because coffee grows best in Indonesia (why do you think they call it java?).  Secondly, normal coffee includes some beans which aren’t yet ripe and others which are overripe and still others that are inferior in other ways, yet they’re all processed together. But the luwak will eat only the finest beans, so the quality is consistently high.  Thirdly, although the beans are not digested, some chemical changes occur in the luwak’s digestion which possibly removes the bitterness and alters the overall flavour of the bean.

Despite having the best coffee in the world, Indonesians are strangely incapable of making a good cup.  Usually they just put a few spoonfuls of ground coffee into a glass with a heap of sugar and pour hot water over the lot.  As the grounds aren’t filtered, you have to strain them out with your teeth.

Now for today’s rant:

The Fairtrade movement seeks to ensure that primary producers are paid a ‘fair’ amount for their product.  Apparently the market is not able to properly decide how much an ounce of coffee should cost.  So these experts have taken it upon themselves to increase producer prices.  But not for all producers, of course.  Only for those who are able to pay the license fee to the Fairtrade Foundation.  Then they have to play by the rules set by this first world organisation.  A few decades ago, another worthy organisation, the United Nations, tried fixing coffee prices, resulting in the usual corruption, cronyism and market disruption that always goes with attempts at central planning.  When the whole thing unravelled, there was a boom in production from new, more efficient players entering the market followed by a crash caused by the overproduction.  The Fairtrade movement could cause the same effect if they gain enough market power.

Already, one country dominates this Fairtrade coffee market.  Which famous coffee producing country do you think it would be?  Indonesia?  No.  Ethiopia?  No.  Columbia? Not even.  No, no country in Asia, Africa or even South America gets the meagre benefits of your Fairtrade dollar, but a North American country, Mexico controls 23% of the market.  I guess it’s not so far for the Fairtrade czars to travel and collect their license fees.

If you would like to hear more of the ’other side of the fair trade story’, watch this video (18mins):

http://www.casttv.com/video/dwwgvh1/worldwrite-the-bitter-aftertaste-video

There is a truely cringeworthy example of racism around the 7 minute mark.  There is also the statement at the end of an admission by the Fairtrade Foundation that it had total sales of $500 million in 2005, of which $50 million went to the growers.  So what about the $450 million remaining?  All being eaten up by administration i.e. salaries and benefits for the first world promoters of this scheme.

This article gives further information, and morelinks (including one to the above clip): http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/cif-green/2009/dec/12/fair-trade-fairtrade-kitkat-farmers

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Gutsy performance ends when dukun takes a bath

http://www.dailymotion.com/videox2h5sx

This over-the-top clip from an old film (they still make them like this) features quite a few cultural icons: the dukun, the kris, the ghost.

‘Dukun’ is the term given to a widely varied group, ranging from faith healers to black witches. The common thread is that they use the spirit world.  I guess they have their origins in animism.  In the isolated villages, and even in the big cities, they are often the only medical help poor people have access to.  Even when there is a medical practitioner around, it can be a long wait for a consultation. Of course, not all dukuns look like the one in the clip.

The kris is a type of dagger found throughout SE Asia.  Some are thought to host spirits. Some dukuns specialise in making posessed krisses, others can divine the nature of the spirit posessing a kris. A friend who inherited one found her sleep disturbed by a presence in her dreams, she found out it was the kris wanting some offering and she placed it in the care of the dukun who had performed the divination. Great care has to be taken with a kris that likes to kill. It will certainly help you to do that, but if you don’t feed it often enough it will grow restless and turn on you.

There are more ghosts (hantu) in Indonesia than any other country, or else people are better at noticing them than anywhere else. There are as many ghost stories as there are people who are willing to tell them. Many people wont tell them for fear of invoking the spirits. I think the only culture which comes close to matching this level of belief in ghosts (as far as I know) is the Irish. Personally, I have an open mind about them, but I’ve never noticed one, even after driving along Casablanca (a street in Jakarta that runs through a cemetary) on many a late night/early morning.

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