Category Archives: Travel tips

Crime in Indonesia: Hypnotists Rob a Cashier

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This CCTV clip is like a silent movie.  Dialogue is unnecessary in this case, where the action unfolds entirely within the camera’s range of view. 

A typical Jakarta restaurant, empty, and maybe mid-afternoon, when most of the other customers have left and the staff are tired and ready to relax.  There is an elderly cashier and perhaps four staff.  The hypnotist and his female accomplice come to the counter to pay for their meal.  From their appearance and manner, they seem to be Indians (there is a large Indian community in Jakarta).  While the woman distracts the staff, the hypnotist sets to work on the cashier, confusing her with various requests concerning money, eventually ‘helping’ her by helping himself to the cash drawer, even putting his had right up into the drawer.  Eventually they get what they came for and the cashier is left to puzzle over what happened to the days takings.

Restaurants are an easy target for hypnotists.  The routine of restaurants is predictable, they are easy to ‘case’.  There is almost certainly going to be cash in the till.

Hypnotic fraud is a common means of robbery in Indonesia.  Violent crime is still very unusual, although there has been an increase in the number of shootings in Jakarta recently.  Even so, Jakarta must rank as one of the safest cities in the world, for its size.

Hypnotists generally work around train stations and bus stops, places where people might be a little confused or dazed.  They pick their targets carefully, usually going for elderly people.  However there are many cases where they will sexually assault a female victim while also relieving her of her cash and valuables.  If you are an English native speaker, you are far less likely to be victimised by the hypnotists because of the language and cultural barrier and the natural caution which most travellers have in a strange country.  But don’t discount the possibility that it can happen to you.

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Jakarta Street Food: Kebab

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An easy but important mistake which tourists to Indonesia often make is when they see food being offered which is familiar and/or healthy. 

Firstly, what is familiar to Westerners is often unfamiliar to most Indonesians.  They may not be familiar with the proper way to handle unusual (for them) types of food.

Secondly, salad or any uncooked vegetable is a dangerous area.  Do you really think they wash that lettuce in bottled water?  Of course they use the tap for washing vegetables!  They even do that at big franchise food outlets. 

In the clip, you see a familiar food from home, kebabs.  But don’t forget kebabs have lettuce!  Furthermore, don’t let that nicely gloved hand fool you.  Yes, everything looks clean, but looking clean is only half the way to sparing you from botulism.  The first ooopppsss! episode is when he uses the same tongs to handle the salad as he uses for the meat.  Sure, it’s ok to do that at home where you only prepare enough food to use immediately, but it’s not a good idea for food that’s being handled all day.  At the end of the clip, watch carefully as he wraps the kebab – he uses both hands, but only one hand is gloved!  He’s got his great big thumb all over your healthy pitta bread.

Anyhow, the amusing part is of course the middle, where he makes it a little bit too spicy.  That can happen if the lid is a bit loose.  But it could also be that the sauce has hardened around the spout.  Maybe because it isn’t being used much because the place isn’t popular.  That’s another thing to avoid – if the stall isn’t popular, there’s usually a good reason.  Unless you’re a local, it’s best to avoid places that aren’t busy.

At first I thought the meat was uncooked!  It looks so red and raw.  Another danger sign – if something doesn’t look right, it probably isn’t.  That colour is probably because of artificial die.  I wouldn’t be surprised if there was a little bit of preservative in that meat.  Not to mention stuff to soften it and goodness knows what other chemicals.

The vendor says the meat is ’sapi’ (beef).  If you think you might ever be tempted to eat kebabs again one day, don’t look at the following pics:

Is cooked beef supposed to be bright red?

Kebabs waiting to be delivered to the vendors

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Mudik : Indonesia Goes Home

Every year at the end of Ramadhan (about the time I’m writing this) Indonesians engage in Mudik (homecoming).  This entails leaving the bright lights of the big cities, where they have gone to find work and business opportunities, and travelling to their home towns, wherever they might be, for Idul Fitri (Eid ul-Fitr) celebrations.

According to police estimates, at least 3 million of the 9.6 million people who live in Jakarta will leave the capital. I would say mudik competes with Chinese New Year and Thanksgiving as one of the world’s greatest human migrations!

These are some pictures capturing their spirit of Mudik…

At ‘Pasar Senen’ train station

At any bus station:

These people are happy just to get a seat on the bus:

The crowd at Cengkareng (CGK) airport, domestic flight terminal:

At Tanjung Priuk sea port:

Mudik by bajaj:

Mudik by motorcycle:

Police have issued regulations to restrict the exodus, for example by threatening to fine motorcyclists riding with more than one passenger, or people riding in trucks. However, the police can’t enforce these regulations because the number of risk takers is overwhelming. The police are understaffed anyway, because most of them are on Mudik too.

Many working class and poor people happily spend almost all their annual savings on the seasonal trip. Buying a ticket during the mudik season can cost double or triple compared with normal fares – if you can get one.  There is also the cost of oleh-oleh (gifts) for the ‘poor folk’ back home.  But that doesn’t seem to be a problem for the mudikers. They’re eager to tell their success stories as migrants in Jakarta, showing their new wealth to all the relatives and neighbours. Others find the annual ceremony a good time to continue the family traditions and to keep in contact with their extended family.

Like Santa, this gentleman brings many gifts (oleh-oleh) for folks back home:

So what happened to Jakarta during the Idul Fitri?:

I can say, this is my most favorite time in the city :D (not for me, Ana, the nightlife is dead, most of the shops are closed and the restaurants are quiet – Mister James)

Even for those who did not make good in the big city, it’s important to go on Mudik to save face.  If they don’t show up for Idul Fitri their relatives and the whole village will ridicule them for having wasted time and money on pursuing their dream.  Some may even take loans so they can pay for new clothes and expensive gifts just to give a good impression.  Often, they make such a big impression that their younger relatives beg them to bring them back to the city so they can do the same.  In fact, people returning from Idul Fitri celebrations often bring relatives back with them.  So it’s an important source of new labour for the big cities.

In my next story, I will tell you about some other new traditions which have arisen from people returning to the city after Idul Fitri.

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Get there Quick by Motorcycle Taxi

First time visitors to Jakarta should generally restrict themselves to travelling by taxi if they don’t have a friend to help them get around.  I’ve written about taxis before on this blog.  As an all purpose mode of transport, the taxi is the best, but there are situations which call for alternative means, one of these is the motorcycle taxi, or ‘ojek’.

I usually take an ojek if I need to travel a short distance.  Walking during the daytime causes excessive sweating.  Taxis usually resent giving customers short rides.  I would understand that if I was calling one off a rank, but even the ones you hail from the street don’t like taking short distance fares.  The ojek is ideal for residential back streets.  I try to avoid taking one on the main roads as it can be quite hair-raising and dangerous in heavy traffic, you will also get coated by diesel fumes.  The ojek can also squeeze through traffic jams – while cars are gridlocked, the motorbike can still get through.

The other reason for using ojek is when you’re in a real hurry.  If you really have to get somewhere fast, a taxi isn’t going to do it, especially during rush hour or when it rains.  You will have to accept the additional danger, dirt and discomfort, but if you survive you will have turned a 2 hour trip into 20 minutes.

Finding an ojek is quite easy.  There is generally a designated area at the back exits of major buildings, near pedestrian bridges, neighourhood watch posts and the places where buses tend to stop (notice I didn’t say ‘bus stops’ – buses stop where they feel like stopping).  Just look for a cluster of parked motorbikes.  Sometimes the ojek will find you.  A guy will stand up and raise his finger and you confirm by saying ‘ojek’.  It also works if you can’t spot the ojek rank – just call out ‘ojek!’ and chances are one will come.

One thing to do before you call an ojek is to have an idea of how much it will cost.  It’s best to ask a local person to estimate the likely fare for you.  You will need to do this so you know how much to offer the ojek at the end of the ride.  I’ve found the ojek drivers to be surprisingly honest, so somehow it doesn’t feel right to negotiate the price before the trip.  When I arrive at my destination, I tender the amount I think is right for that distance.  If the ojek looks disappointed then I offer a few thousand rupiah more until we settle on a fair amount.  You will, of course, want to negotiate the price beforehand if you are taking a long distance ride.

Jakarta is the only urban centre in Indonesia where I know they have ojeks.  Places like Yogya and Surabaya still have becaks (pedicabs).  The other place to find ojeks is in the villages.

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Tips for First-time Visitors to Jakarta

Jakarta can be a bit intimidating for the first-time visitor.  Its reputation precedes it as a big industrial city with few concessions made for tourists.  It’s hot, dirty, smelly, polluted, busy, anarchic.  When you land there, you’ll find it’s not quite as bad as you thought.  Sure, it’s all those negative things, but not as badly as other cities I’ve been to: for ‘hot’ try Dubai; dirty – London; smelly – Bankok; polluted – Santiago; busy – Tokyo; anarchic – Caracas.  Even so, it’s a bit overwhelming to deal with all that AND an unfamiliar culture too.  So here are my basic tips.  In no particular order of importance.  I intend to add to them in future as I think of more:

1. Have the Right Attitude  Patience, calm, humour.  You’ll need these virtues in spades. You will be tested by misunderstandings, people promising and not delivering, services not being available when you want them, the heat and humidity.  It’s considered very poor form to show anger.  Actually, it’s considered poor form to show any emotion at all.  Indonesians work hard to maintain a calm atmosphere, you will lose face if you disrupt their calm.  Anger can get results, but it can easily destroy relationships.  Relationships are the basis of business here.

2.  Changing Money  Credit cards are useful up to a point.  You’ll need cash at least for the taxis and most entertainments.  Change a small amount at the airport in the arrivals hall, enough for a couple of days until you can get to a money changer.  I normally use the money changer in Gedung Setia Budi Building as it’s central. There’s also a good one in Pasar Raya Blok M.  The rates in Jakarta are the best in the country, so if you’re in transit to an outer island, change as much as you’re going to need in Jakarta.  It’s also a nice feeling to have millions in your pocket (even if it’s only rupiah).  Those rupiah aren’t worth much outside Indonesia.  After you leave, you may be able to change them at Changi Airport if you have a connecting flight there.

3  Carry your Passport at All Times  Everyone carries an ID card and the police don’t make an exception for you.  They often set up roadblocks and they will want to check your ID.  If you don’t have it on you, you will have to pay a small ‘fine’.  A photocopy will not be sufficient.  Bring a photocopy in your luggage in case the original gets stolen, but carry the original with you.  Don’t put it in your shirt pocket, find a safe place for it. 

4. Don’t do Anything you’d be Ashamed to do at Home  You’ll get plenty of opportunities to do stupid things.  Try not to do them.  Don’t pick a fight with the scrawny annoying kid who sells cigarettes around the corner from your hotel.  Yes, you will beat him up.  Yes, 20 of his friends will be waiting for you tomorrow night as you walk back from the pub.  They will likely have machetes, but they probably won’t kill you.

5. Don’t bother Bargaining for Small Things  In Bali you bargain for everything.  Jakarta is more businesslike.  People here don’t have much time  for bargaining and prices are generally as low as the merchant can offer.  Most middle class Indonesians don’t bother bargaining for small purchases.  As a foreigner, you’re considered at least middle class, regardless of how wealthy you actually think you are.  You’re rich compared to most Indonesians.  You can bargain clothes and souvenirs – clothes are usually fixed price, but it’s worth asking.  There’s sometimes a big mark up on souvenirs, and they’re more expensive here than Bali, so give it a try.

6. Read My Post about Taxis.

There’s a lot more, I’ll add more as I think of them.  Or you can search under the topic ‘Travel tips’.

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Enjoy Jakarta – while we murder the English language

I’m the first to admit I’ve made a few typos and grammar mistakes since I started this blog.  But I don’t represent the biggest city in SE Asia: http://jakarta-tourism.go.id/wisatadkiapp/

Here’s an example from the site:

History of JAKARTA

Jakarta the city of history mention the earlier phase emanates from the diverse ancient inscriptions found in the nearby port, begin at least the 14th century with the development of a small port of Hindu Padjajaran Kingdom which known as Sunda Kelapa at the mouth of Ciliwung River. Searching for the fabled “Spice Island”, the Portuguese were the first Europeans which arrive and establish a fortress on the site in the early 16th century.

I guess they’re not really interested in telling about the history of Jakarta, or they’d use something better than a language translating site (I can’t believe they could have paid someone to write that home page).  They might also have mentioned a few other things happening after the Portuguese built their fort – such as the Dutch coming and staying for 300 years?

I’ll leave it to you to identify all the other things that are wrong about the home page, if you have the inclination.  I found this site about three months ago, and I wouldn’t be criticising if they had fixed a few of the obvious problems.  But it’s quite a typical attitude that once something’s ‘done’ it’s never improved on or updated.  At least they update the calendar, but notice they still have the ‘Visit Indonesia 2009′ icon at the bottom of the page?

There is, in fact, some useful information on the site, such as hotel listings, including a large number of budget hotels in Jl Jaksa (the backpacker’s area – look under 1 star hotels) though an English speaker will have a few troubles making a booking since they only give the address and telephone number.  Of course, nobody who knows Jaksa would make a booking without checking out the hotel first.  But the information isn’t intended for people who already know the city (who in their right mind would stay in a seedy hotel in Jaksa?).

Some of the information is downright dangerous, for example, they recommend a shopping visit to the Jatinegara gemstone market.  Jatinegara is not the finest neighbourhood in Jakarta and the gem market isn’t exactly set up for tourists.  The one time I went there, none of the merchants were willing to show me a natural or untreated stone and the prices were so inflated there was no chance of bargaining the price down to a reasonable level.  There was no air conditioning, little lighting and nowhere to rest or eat.  I don’t know why they continue to try to make it into a tourist destination.

One last point – under ‘travelling tips’ they recommend tipping 10% at restaurants.  In my experience, a tip is completely unexpected, although most welcome.

I could say a lot more about the deficiencies of this site, but it’s like shooting fish in a barrel – too easy.  Can I just ask that the Governor of Jakarta take tourism seriously some time?

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World’s most populous island?: Bungin

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It might be an idea to turn the sound off if you want to watch this clip.

The powers that be want to turn this place into some kind of tourist attraction.  I guess the island has one big advantage – there’s nothing else for miles around.  As you can gather from the map in the clip, it’s about 70 kilometres from the nearest big town, so you really have to go out of your way to get there.  Anyhow, it has three main claims to fame which the local government hopes to use to attract tourists - 1. The goats eat paper and rags; 2. It has the highest population density of any island in the world; and 3. It’s growing!

1. You can see the goats eating the morning’s paper in the clip.  I always thought all goats did that, from my comic-book-acquired knowledge of goats - paper and tin cans.  Perhaps the point here is that these goats have newspapers, rags and any other garbage they can find as their sole diet because there isn’t a blade of grass on the island, the soil is so poor. They say the local sate kambing (goat sate) is a delicacy, I think I would pass.

2. This could well be true.  The population is growing and its such a tight-knit community that nobody wants to leave. The problem with having such a high population density is that the houses are very close together, sometimes as close as 1.5 metres and the roofs are often touching. The result is that the islanders greatest fear is not storms but fire. A big enough fire could wipe out the whole lot of them.

3. Fortunately(?) the water-level is shallow so when a newly married couple want to start a family, they reclaim just enough land on the edge of the island to build their home.  In 2002, the island covered six hectares, now it’s eight.  It’s said the island originally covered only 3 hectares back in the 19th century when it was first settled.  The settlers were actually Bugis from South Sulawesi who were forced to leave their homeland by the Dutch.  Still, there are other islands that are growing, volcanic islands such as Anak Krakatoa are probably growing even faster than this one.

There are a few other matters which might make you hesitate to put this island on your itinerary. Firstly, they’ve had a problem with malaria over the past three years. Secondly, there’s a sanitation problem.  Although every house has a bathroom, none of them has a toilet. If you have to go, you have to run to the shore and look for a private spot.

Despite these problems, the islanders are affluent compared to their neighbours on Sumbawa.  Electricity and water is connected to all homes (not sewage though), most households have at least a tv set.  The kids have access to playstations.  The source of this wealth is the sea.  The Bugis are famous seafarers.  Actually, they’re mostly famous as pirates – they gave their name to the bogey man.  While the men are away at sea for three months or more, the women make good money by collecting sea cucumbers and shellfish in the shallows.  Perhaps the extra nutrients coming from the town increases the food supply for the animals in these waters?

I know I’ve taken a rather negative view of this place, but I’m always suspicious when government tries to take business matters into its own hands, particularly when there’s not much of an industry to begin with.  Despite its problems, I really do think it would be an interesting place to visit (if it were more accessable.  There are a few things that would be of real interest to me, such as the unusual stilt architecture and unique traditional culture.

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Taxi Adventures


Originally uploaded by runasnaps

TAXIS
In most of the world’s big cities, it can be difficult to find a cab when you need one. Not in Jakarta. Step out onto the street at any time and you’re almost certain to see half a dozen.
There are exceptions, of course. Friday lunchtime is not good because most of the drivers will be at the mosque, or taking people there. Afternoon rush hours (but strangely not the morning rush) are bad for obvious reasons. But on the whole, finding a cab is not a problem. Fares are cheap too.
As with many other things in Indonesia, the problem is not quantity but quality. Even then, if you’re travelling a short distance and you know where you’re going then the quality won’t matter so much. You might also not be so choosy at those odd times when there are few cabs available.
But unless you want to take the scenic route to your destination, have a taste for loud Islamic music or have a fetish for unusual odours you will want to do some filtering before you step into that taxi. Luckily there is a well established pecking order in the quality of Jakarta cabs which follows in rough order of preference:

Silver Bird
These old Nissan Cedric limos are slightly more expensive than any other taxi, but they don’t stretch the Western wallet, even over long distances. Perhaps it’s just to confuse you, but these cabs are painted black. The silver is only in the lettering.
The Blue Bird Group also offers Golden Bird limos, which are a step up in quality from the Silver Bird, but Golden Birds have to be booked and are unmetered, so I don’t consider them to be a true taxi.
Silver Birds can be hailed on the street, but they generally roost at the ranks at the better quality hotels.

Blue Bird
The flagship of the Blue Bird Group. These are the ones to flag down. Blue Bird drivers are generally polite, knowledgeable and well presented. The company sets a high standard and will actually follow up a complaint (if you noted the driver’s number).
The Blue Bird is in such demand by passengers that many other taxi companies disguise themselves in the pale blue livery, hoping to lure myopic passengers.
Most international hotels have a Blue Bird rank and they also have ranks at some of the bigger office and shopping buildings.

Ekspres
I’ve found these to be just as good as the average Blue Bird, but they’re far less common. There is a rank at Blok M Plaza.

Gamya
When they first came out, all green and shiny, I thought they would be serious competition for Bluebird. Things soon went downhill from there. This is one taxi firm I would actively avoid. Maybe things have improved lately, they would need to.

Kosti Jaya
Actually, I’ve usually enjoyed my rides in a Kosti cab. It’s been a long time since I have, though. I don’t know why, I have them impression they’re a bit old-fashioned. I almost expect to see lace curtains when get into one of these cabs.

BlueBird Wannabes
I always feel guilty when I’m trying to hail a decent cab on the streets of Jakarta and have to wave off numerous cabs from inferior companies. The worst time is when I think I’ve spotted a nice Bluebird because of the colour of the cab only to realise my mistake when it draws close. Don’t be fooled by the ‘Bluebird Group’ sign you often see in the window of some non-Bluebird taxis. They may belong to the same group of companies, but they are managed separately.

Tiffany
How can you not want to ride in a pink cab with a girl’s name? Well, after a few experiences, I don’t.
When these cabs first hit the streets, I’m told, there would be a book of photos on the back seat for you to choose the girl you want to be taken to. I don’t know if ALL the business was transacted there. Judging by the condition of the cabs, maybe it was. In any case, that service was soon discontinued. Now it’s just a very poor quality cab service. There is a Tiffany rank outside Mangga Dua Mal. Make alternative transport arrangements.

Prestasi
Most of the stories you will hear concerning Jakarta cabs will involve Prestasi cabs. Some of them are actually quite clean and with well mannered drivers, but don’t expect it. With their powder blue colouring, they fall under the bluebird wannabe category, but most of them are so beaten up you’re unlikely to mistake them for a real Bluebird.

Tarip Lama
This translates as ‘old rate’. It means the cabbie hasn’t taken his car in to the government taxi centre to get the meter updated to the new fare rates. It’s not out of generosity, it can be expensive to do this whenever the rates change. Firstly, there is the official fee, then the bribes to the officials to get them to do the job, then consider all that time waiting when he could be sitting at a rank!
Indonesians make a virtue of necessity, and so the fact the meter is unchanged is advertised by the sign ‘tarip lama’ in the window. Cabs which would have been waved past are now a prized catch. For the Western traveller, the price difference is insignificant.

Cab ranks
In my experience, cabbies who sit around all day in a rank are useless creatures with little initiative. The rank attracts fools who’re too lazy to seek out their own fares and inexperience drivers who don’t know the streets well enough. I much prefer to hail a cab off the street unless I’m leaving a nice hotel.

Airport
If nobody is picking you up from the airport, you have some choices, depending on the time you arrive. As you leave the enclosed area of the terminal, you will see a long line of cabs from different companies. If you arrived at a busy time and the cabs of the standard you want aren’t available, you can go back into the arrivals hall and book a limo from one of the booths you passed before at a set price. Don’t let them force you to take an expensive one. The prices are more than a normal cab, but still quite affordable.
If you’re still not satisfied, you can go downstairs (upstairs?) to where people are being dropped off and just jump into a cab that’s just set someone down. If you choose this option, you need to be quick and decisive as the officials don’t like you doing this.
If you think it’s a bit expensive to be taking taxis tens of kilometres to the city, there is always the bus. It’s not as bad as it sounds, but it will drop you off at Gambir train station. Finding a decent taxi from Stasion Gambir can be an adventure all to itself.

Having read all of this, can you the reader tell me if the taxi in the photo is a bluebird?

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